Some insiders believe that Indian brands, which already have a majority share of the country’s luxury market at their fingertips, are more attractive to investors than local designers in other emerging economies.“Why smaller versions of the European conglomerates?,” asks Akshaya Chauhan, a director of the Fashion Design Council of India, who believes that nascent Indian conglomerates have every reason to dream big and try to match the scale of LVMH one day.
Unlike in Russia, China or Brazil, fashion consumers in India continue to favor traditional or fusion dress over imports. That gives Indian brands an edge over international luxury brands, Chauhan said, adding, “The average discerning consumer will take time before graduating to wear all-Western clothes.”
Anil Chopra, vice president for Lakme, the beauty company that sponsors Lakme Fashion Week, has seen more deep pockets sitting in the front rows of Mumbai’s fashion shows than ever before.“Over the last two to three years, there has been a high degree of interest from potential investors in the Indian fashion business,” Chopra said. “Some are purely private equity funds, while others have been more strategic in nature, who will bring in expertise in the processes, contacts and so on.”
Mass- and mid-market Indian apparel retailers, like the Pantaloons chain and Reliance Industries, have recently spun off companies dedicated to acquiring new fashion brands. Their respective subsidiaries, Future Brands and Reliance Retail, are reportedly looking for local brands to develop.
Meanwhile, designer brands on the catwalks of New Delhi and Mumbai have already caught the eye of Sanjay Kapoor, managing director of the holding company Genesis Colors. This summer, Genesis was injected with an investment of 1.1 billion rupees , or $24 million, from a private equity consortium led by the U.S. firm Sequoia Capital Fund.
“Mr. Kapoor has invested in local brands, like Satya Paul and home-grown designer Deepika Gehani, with the goal of turning small-scale family businesses into commercial enterprises,” said Bandana Tewari, fashion features editor at Vogue India.
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